The City of Two Stories

I know a lot of people that love traveling and want to visit as many countries in the world as possible. They have a list and they are checking it off. And I will admit that I do find the idea very alluring. However, being in Nicaragua among a community of people who love to travel and seek cultural experiences, I’ve learned that there will always be more to see in any one place – any one city, any one state, any one country, or any one continent. Seeing “as many” as possible is a fool’s fulfillment. I’d rather experience ‘as much’ as possible, no matter where it is. Most backpackers traveling through Nicaragua dutifully follow the Lonely Planet gospel, some meandering from Mexico all the way down to Patagonia. They see León, Granada, and maybe Ometepe and San Juan del Sur. Very few make it farther afield, such as to the North of Nicaragua, or the Caribbean Coast. Before coming to Nicaragua I had never in my life heard of Matagalpa, Estelí, El Castillo, or Ometepe Island, among a multitude of other wonderful places I have visited and experienced. I only ever heard of León and Granada from reading a book about Nicaragua after being invited to serve in Nicaragua.

And now there is more and more I want to see and do here in Nicaragua. This past weekend I got the opportunity to see one new department, one which of course I had never ever heard of in the United States (and mind you, I am good, dare I say great, at geography), Boaco.

The city of Boaco is known as The City of Two Stories. It used to be two different cities – one at the top of a hill and one at the bottom. Over time they grew together, and now it is one hilly and pretty city. The climate is very agreeable, especially for a Leones like myself, and around every corner Boaco offer an excellent view, whether it be of the surrounding mountains or the other “story” of the city.

Other than hiking around in the surrounding towns, there is not really that much to do in Boaco. The Volunteers in the Department call it the least touristy department of the whole country. But they seem to love their department all the same and find pleasure in the surrounding natural beauty.

After a night in Boaco I went to the Boacan town of San José de los Remates, where fellow Blue Hen Volunteer Tom Ford has lived and volunteered for two years now. Tom and I even had a class together back in Delaware, and I had been wanting to visit him in his site before he left Nicaragua.

Fear the Bird!

San José de los Remates is a neat little clean and orderly town in the mountains of Boaco. I really liked it. On Monday we took a hike to their waterfall, which can be seen up in the mountains from town. One thing I loved about San José were the stories Tom told me about how the town has solved its own problems (he rents a room from the mayor, so I’m sure he has heard a lot from her). The drinking water comes from the waterfall, and many years ago people were dying, and the water was suspected. It turns out that the pipes had asbestos. So they changed the pipes, and the town restored its faith and pride in the municipal water source.

This is the only street sign I have ever seen in Nicaragua

Years later, the water again became polluted, this time by cow effluence. So the town bought out the ranchers, converted the land into an organic coffee farm, and installed hiking trails. And as a result the townspeople still enjoy clean water as well as additional employment and income and the potential for tourism. Unfortunately, San José has to contend with a problem all across the coffee producing regions of Nicaragua – children abandon school before the school year ends and sometimes don’t return until March to join their parents picking coffee.

Drought!

Coffee beans

Municipal hiking trail

Tom also has a “son.” Obviously the five year old, Jacinto, is not Tom’s, but he just wanders over to Tom’s house and hangs out for hours, it seems. The precocious little kid is a neighbor and has taken a liking for Tom. He just wanders into Tom’s house, makes nonsensical conversation like a drunk man on the street, and generally makes a mess of Tom’s house. I loved it! Unfortunately I didn’t take a picture of the little rascal, but who knows, maybe one day he will be the President of Nicaragua or something else famous. I also wonder that when I meet funny little kids.

In Boaco we stayed at Hotel Sobalvarro (Facebook link), which is right on the central park on the “top floor.” It is well located, cheap, clean, and comfortable enough. It is more of a hostel, despite the “hotel” name. I don’t believe they have a website but you can call them at 2542-2515.

Buses from Managua to Boaco leave from Mercado Mayoreo every half-hour. However, only every other is an expresso. The ruteados will make more frequent stops and take longer (2 hours + if I recall). There are also minivans that make the trip direct, but their timing is very inconsistent. I recommend only taking one if it is there at Mayoreo filling up. Otherwise take a bus. Be advised to only take Boaco buses. Boaco is off of the main highway, so Juigalpa, El Rama, Nueva Guinea, and San Carlos buses will not pass by Boaco directly.

From Boaco there are busses to nearby towns, such as Santa Lucia, and settlements further afield, such as Río Blanco.

And as for San José:

I do not know of any places to stay in San José de los Remates. I would recommend the town for anyone interested in light hiking and coffee tourism. You would have to do a little Google research, get a contact phone number, and make some forward arrangements, which is really a shame because for such a small town, San José de los Remates is very accessible:

Managua (Mayoreo) to San José

6:00 AM
12:30 PM (not on Sundays)

San José to Managua

5:30 AM (not of Sundays)
1:40 PM

San José to Teustepe (which is on the main highway, so you can get a ride to Managua, Boaco, or further afield)

6:30 AM
7:15 AM
9:00 AM
3:00 PM

Teustepe to San José

7:45 AM
11:00 AM
1:00 PM
2:15 PM
5:30 PM (5:00 PM on Sundays)

Boaco to San José

12:10 PM (2.5 hours, leaves from the market, not the terminal)
1:00 PM (leaves from the terminal, but it is a longer alternative route through the mountains)

San José to Boaco

6:30 AM (leaves from the market, not the terminal)
7:00 AM (longer alternative route from the bus terminal)

San José to Esquipulas, Matagalpa

6:40 AM
12:15 PM

Esquipulas to San José

8:30 AM
2:15 PM

As always, try to confirm schedules ahead of time, because they are always subject to change.